"I'll cry when Sleemai leaves for America."--younger woman
"I won't be sad when Sleemai leaves, because she'll take me back to America!"--older woman
I recently ventured out from the confines of Gunzi to see what lies up the river in the deep southern reaches of the Suriname River. I departed Saturday, January 16. I had expected to leave Gunzi in the early afternoon but the boatman I was waiting on had other plans--I got the infamous "dalek" treatment which meant we'd leave when he felt like it. So I was picked up at Gunzi near five o'clock and hopped the boat with fellow Peace Corps Volunteer and my dear buddy Taangapai--"The Strong Son". Going down river, we had two unexpected stops. Our first was at Bendikwai, where we met up with our Peace Corps friend Bendikwaipai. Yep, his village seriously calls him that, it's hilarious. After hanging around until our boatman was ready to leave we headed further up river and he took care of some short business in a village called Pikislee. Taangapai and I remained on the boat as there is no Peace Corps Volunteer in Pikislee. After about a 15 minute wait we were finally ready to depart. The young lad who was the 1st mate under the captain of our motorized canoe was sure we'd arrive in Zemoise at 8 pm. He was wrong. At 8 pm, in the pitch dark without a flashlight, we were firing up the rapids near Masia creek. To make matters worse, it had also started raining. I was pretty sure we were not going to make it to Zemoise but by 9 pm we had arrived. Upon arrival, we found a dead rat in Taangapai's house. We threw it outside in the bush, cooked up some velveeta cheese shells and called it a night.
The next two days were an introduction to village life in Zemoise. We met up wtih Captimai, the other volunteer in Zemoise. I attended the two volunteers' English class in Zemoise and then Taangapai taught me how to make mango wine which has turned into a potential project possibility for the tourist camp in Gunzi. We spent the better part of the second night listening and dancing to The Killers. This amused the village children. The next day was pretty low key and I was waiting around until the late afternoon to hop on another boat and go further south--up the river, to the furthest Peace Corps site along the Suriname River, Gaanslee.
Gaanslee was an interesting trip. First, there is no electricity in this village which I had only experienced once before. This basically means that everyone wants to hang out at night as opposed to sit in their house and watch movies every night which is what happens in Gunzi. Also, the volunteer in Gaanslee had a big rat infestation due to the way her house had been built. I hate rats. I spent two nights and one day in Gaanslee. During the day I spent there, we did a quick tour of the village and I got to see some great wood carving work some of the guys in the village had done. We walked further south along the river, through two more small villages until we reached the point where the river splits into the big and small river. This is an important part of Sarramaccan culture. On an island at the end of the rapid where the big river begins is where the Sarramaccans first broke the reeds to consecrate the land for themselves. Here, we took a boat across the river to a village called Djumue and then walked through Bendikonde, where there is a radio station, to the Graanman Konde, Asindohopo. Of course, we visited the Graanman's house, the Sarramaccan equivalent of a govenor's mansion I suppose, but unfortunately he was not there. We also toured the Graanman street and hung around the area for a whiles. At one point, while I was sitting on a log above a small creek taking a picture of a very large and cool looking tree, three local kids told me there were kaiman below my feet. I quickly ran away.
After the Gaanslee trip I decided to slowly but surely head back down the river, back home to Gunzi. First I made a return to Zemoise for the day where I hung out with Taangapai once more. We made some more wine, walked to a village called Pempe, played some soccer with the villagers in Zemoise and watched Team America--an abnormally productive day on our part. I decided to leave a day early and headed for Futunakaba, a big church village. Here, I met up with Bendikwaipai and Futunumai. The highlight of our day was playing cards and listening to the new Green Day CD. Unfortunately, there were more rats in Futunakaba and sleeping was minimal once again--darn rats! Finally, after 6 nights and at least 10 villages later, and probably 15 rats seen, I caught a boat back to Gunzi. Of course my stay was short as that afternoon the villages came to my house and told me to pack up my football shoes as I'd be playing in a scrimmage game later that night.
*Pictures of this trip are on the facebook, check them out!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Droppin 2 in Jaw-jaw
"It's Cristiano!"--village kid
A few of the village kids have taken it upon themselves to start calling me Cristiano, like the Portuguese footballer. Although my ball skills have significantly improved I don't think I'm quite deserving of a nickname like that yet. Although they might be calling me Cristiano because I like to show off and ball hog and one or two of those kids definitely thinks I'm a jerk. Yeah, maybe it is fitting then. Either way, better than some of the other nicknames they've tried to give me--one guy recently tried to change my village name from baziapai to Gunzi man. Furthermore, the Captain still calls me Kashewpai, the name of the previous volunteer. He calls me that so often sometimes I wonder if he has forgotten the last volunteer left for the States several months ago. After living here for several months, I am not even sure I can remember what my legal name is anymore.
Anyways, this post is about football or as it is called in America, soccer. My first experience playing in Suriname was during the orientation with some teenagers from Lelydorp who were taking it easy on us Peace Corps Volunteers. My next experience was during my homestay experience near Brokopondo. I played usually 3 or 4 times a week with some kids ranging between 8-12. They kicked my rear pretty much every single time. Then I showed up in Gunzi where there was one weekly game every Sunday night. For a while the game had completely stopped and it looked like my ball dreams were over. But recently, the village has put together a make-shift team.
The first game I played in I was brought on as a late substitute in a blow-out during a friendly game with another village. I had one or two decent touches and just mostly ran around. My next game I unexpectedly got the start in a scrimmage. This time I was playing with a few of the Gunzi guys for a neighboring village called Laduani. I had one good forward pass between two defenders to start a breakaway that nearly led to a goal but then missed several balls thereafter and was pulled within 10 minutes of the start by some "coach" who came on the field and was yelling at me to get off. He also used some choice words when he pulled me off the field and I had to restrain myself because had this happened in America I would've given him an ear full that would've made my old man proud. After he pulled the rest of our villagers early in the game, we left just after half and no one from our village has played with that team again. Since then, my village's team, the Gunzi team has been playing in a local club league. They have yet to start me in an actual game but brought me along to a big scrimmage game in a village called Jaw-Jaw about two weeks back. Despite the fact that I'm not the worst player of the group, I was snubbed of a start and brought on at about half time. Much to their surprise, I netted two goals that night. Yes! The first one was nice, I caught a rebound off the goal keeper and put it in the back of my net with my left foot. It was a bit reminiscient of my first goal in youth soccer, everyone on the sidelines was more excited for me than I was. The next one was a bit of luck. I had put the defender on my back in the middle of the box and was asking for a ball in the middle from my teammate who was within 10 yards of me. He decided to be selfish and shoot the ball. Trying to avoid the ball I turned my body and it richocheted off my back, confusing the goal keeper--who would've made an easy save, and going into the back of the net for my second goal and to seal the victory for our side in the scrimmage. I sheepishly laughed and shrugged my shoulders. I was snubbed of any playing time in the next game but my game is definitely improving and I am playing more confidently. I'm hoping at some point down the line, when my game has improved even more, I'll get some playing time against Laduani and put one in the back of the net against them. And I'll be sure to let that "coach" know that I'm #1--just like Rick Barry!
A few of the village kids have taken it upon themselves to start calling me Cristiano, like the Portuguese footballer. Although my ball skills have significantly improved I don't think I'm quite deserving of a nickname like that yet. Although they might be calling me Cristiano because I like to show off and ball hog and one or two of those kids definitely thinks I'm a jerk. Yeah, maybe it is fitting then. Either way, better than some of the other nicknames they've tried to give me--one guy recently tried to change my village name from baziapai to Gunzi man. Furthermore, the Captain still calls me Kashewpai, the name of the previous volunteer. He calls me that so often sometimes I wonder if he has forgotten the last volunteer left for the States several months ago. After living here for several months, I am not even sure I can remember what my legal name is anymore.
Anyways, this post is about football or as it is called in America, soccer. My first experience playing in Suriname was during the orientation with some teenagers from Lelydorp who were taking it easy on us Peace Corps Volunteers. My next experience was during my homestay experience near Brokopondo. I played usually 3 or 4 times a week with some kids ranging between 8-12. They kicked my rear pretty much every single time. Then I showed up in Gunzi where there was one weekly game every Sunday night. For a while the game had completely stopped and it looked like my ball dreams were over. But recently, the village has put together a make-shift team.
The first game I played in I was brought on as a late substitute in a blow-out during a friendly game with another village. I had one or two decent touches and just mostly ran around. My next game I unexpectedly got the start in a scrimmage. This time I was playing with a few of the Gunzi guys for a neighboring village called Laduani. I had one good forward pass between two defenders to start a breakaway that nearly led to a goal but then missed several balls thereafter and was pulled within 10 minutes of the start by some "coach" who came on the field and was yelling at me to get off. He also used some choice words when he pulled me off the field and I had to restrain myself because had this happened in America I would've given him an ear full that would've made my old man proud. After he pulled the rest of our villagers early in the game, we left just after half and no one from our village has played with that team again. Since then, my village's team, the Gunzi team has been playing in a local club league. They have yet to start me in an actual game but brought me along to a big scrimmage game in a village called Jaw-Jaw about two weeks back. Despite the fact that I'm not the worst player of the group, I was snubbed of a start and brought on at about half time. Much to their surprise, I netted two goals that night. Yes! The first one was nice, I caught a rebound off the goal keeper and put it in the back of my net with my left foot. It was a bit reminiscient of my first goal in youth soccer, everyone on the sidelines was more excited for me than I was. The next one was a bit of luck. I had put the defender on my back in the middle of the box and was asking for a ball in the middle from my teammate who was within 10 yards of me. He decided to be selfish and shoot the ball. Trying to avoid the ball I turned my body and it richocheted off my back, confusing the goal keeper--who would've made an easy save, and going into the back of the net for my second goal and to seal the victory for our side in the scrimmage. I sheepishly laughed and shrugged my shoulders. I was snubbed of any playing time in the next game but my game is definitely improving and I am playing more confidently. I'm hoping at some point down the line, when my game has improved even more, I'll get some playing time against Laduani and put one in the back of the net against them. And I'll be sure to let that "coach" know that I'm #1--just like Rick Barry!
Friday, January 1, 2010
Chaos
"Oh no... I fell in the river"--Matt Nofzinger mocking me
Yes, I made a joke about this on facebook two or three days ago and then it actually happened. I sort of sank into the Suriname River on New Year's Eve--hopped a railing, walked down the shore and then my shoes got caught in the muck of the river, my pants fell down cause I didn't have a belt and I almost fell into the river. Almost, Matt, almost. Sadly, my jeans and shoes were ruined in the muck and I looked like a complete idiot. Otherwise, New Year's was solid.
The party started December 30th when we started setting off fireworks in a lot, right before going to a street party where a band was playing a few blocks from our hostel. The next day, I showed up at 10 am on Domineestraat, the main street downtown. At first there was a marching band and party truck. Then the firecrackers were busted out. I can only assume about 50 million firecrackers were lit off yesterday. Guys were carrying crates of 500,000 down the street and lining em' up and down Domineestraat. I saw at least 15 lines of firecrackers blown up and heard a lot more. There was a bit of a scary moment when one of them caught a house on fire right in the middle of the party. Luckily the authorities were on top of that one and got the fire out quickly.
We were at this party more or less until 5 when the bands stopped playing. By 8, I was setting off fireworks in some random lot, again. Totally legal here in Suriname and awesome. We set off a couple of rockets and mortars then headed towards the touristy side of town for a dance party. Then we showed up at the waterkant, this collection of small food shops and restaurants beside the river, at 10:30. At the waterkant, we kicked back and watched a ton of fireworks that were being shot off across the river and wrapped up the night. In all, a wild and entertaining New Year's.
Yes, I made a joke about this on facebook two or three days ago and then it actually happened. I sort of sank into the Suriname River on New Year's Eve--hopped a railing, walked down the shore and then my shoes got caught in the muck of the river, my pants fell down cause I didn't have a belt and I almost fell into the river. Almost, Matt, almost. Sadly, my jeans and shoes were ruined in the muck and I looked like a complete idiot. Otherwise, New Year's was solid.
The party started December 30th when we started setting off fireworks in a lot, right before going to a street party where a band was playing a few blocks from our hostel. The next day, I showed up at 10 am on Domineestraat, the main street downtown. At first there was a marching band and party truck. Then the firecrackers were busted out. I can only assume about 50 million firecrackers were lit off yesterday. Guys were carrying crates of 500,000 down the street and lining em' up and down Domineestraat. I saw at least 15 lines of firecrackers blown up and heard a lot more. There was a bit of a scary moment when one of them caught a house on fire right in the middle of the party. Luckily the authorities were on top of that one and got the fire out quickly.
We were at this party more or less until 5 when the bands stopped playing. By 8, I was setting off fireworks in some random lot, again. Totally legal here in Suriname and awesome. We set off a couple of rockets and mortars then headed towards the touristy side of town for a dance party. Then we showed up at the waterkant, this collection of small food shops and restaurants beside the river, at 10:30. At the waterkant, we kicked back and watched a ton of fireworks that were being shot off across the river and wrapped up the night. In all, a wild and entertaining New Year's.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
World AIDs Day
"I walked the avenue till my legs felt like stone
I heard the voices of friends vanished and gone
At night I could hear the blood in my veins
Black and whispering as the rain." --Springsteen, Streets of Philadelphia
On Saturday December 5, 2009, three Peace Corps Volunteers and 16 sixth grade students hosted an HIV/AIDs awareness event in the village of N. Aurora.
My last trip into the city in November was stressful. Catherine and myself had two and a half days to buy everything we needed for the World AIDs Day event. We ran around town buying t-shirts and other visuals for the event. The most stressful and unfortunately memorable moment of my trip to the city was when I got lost looking for the National AIDs Programme building, the place where I'd be given 600+ condoms to distribute amongst the village of N. Aurora. While looking for the building, I happened to walk right past it and into an AIDs treatment center. I'll never forget the looks of the faces on the people in the waiting room, their eyes full of despair while waiting to be tested for HIV. It brought on a whole new meaning to the work I was doing with these kids.
As for the AIDs day itself, it was an interesting event since we were dependent on the 6th graders to run the show. It was far from a success by American standards, but it was probably a success by local standards. We had 100% attendance and participation by the 6th graders which was my biggest fear and the sound board showed up only 30 minutes late, only minor details in this Peace Corps job. The event itself was fun to watch unfold. We started out by passing out pieces of yarn with a red bead to all those in attendance. This was a visual to unite our audience for the AIDs day and was very popular. Then, the kids did four skits and a few raps about how to prevent HIV. We had not been able to practice with microphones before this day because the electricity is so sporadic in this village so this added a bit of uncertainty to the event. Then, in the middle of the skits and raps, the kids--in charge of the soundboard, decided to throw on some dance music and improve a dance.
This left the Peace Corps Volunteers flabergasted and slightly amused, I think everyone else in attendance was just confused though. We wrapped up on stage with the kids receiving certificates from the Peace Corps staff who were in attendance. Finally, the volunteers in attendance passed out condoms to the villagers. People were happy to receive the condoms but a bit upset they could only get 9. They told us that 9 condoms would only last them 3 days--I'll be bringing back 1152 male condoms to the river next week.
In review, the World AIDs day event went about as smoothly as we could expect. Hopefully those in attendance will remember our event when they see a kid or a volunteer walking around the village sporting a red bead which were still being worn a week after the event. But most importantly, we got through to sixteen 6th graders whom I'm hoping won't ever have to sit in a room and be tested for HIV because they know how to prevent it.
I heard the voices of friends vanished and gone
At night I could hear the blood in my veins
Black and whispering as the rain." --Springsteen, Streets of Philadelphia
On Saturday December 5, 2009, three Peace Corps Volunteers and 16 sixth grade students hosted an HIV/AIDs awareness event in the village of N. Aurora.
My last trip into the city in November was stressful. Catherine and myself had two and a half days to buy everything we needed for the World AIDs Day event. We ran around town buying t-shirts and other visuals for the event. The most stressful and unfortunately memorable moment of my trip to the city was when I got lost looking for the National AIDs Programme building, the place where I'd be given 600+ condoms to distribute amongst the village of N. Aurora. While looking for the building, I happened to walk right past it and into an AIDs treatment center. I'll never forget the looks of the faces on the people in the waiting room, their eyes full of despair while waiting to be tested for HIV. It brought on a whole new meaning to the work I was doing with these kids.
As for the AIDs day itself, it was an interesting event since we were dependent on the 6th graders to run the show. It was far from a success by American standards, but it was probably a success by local standards. We had 100% attendance and participation by the 6th graders which was my biggest fear and the sound board showed up only 30 minutes late, only minor details in this Peace Corps job. The event itself was fun to watch unfold. We started out by passing out pieces of yarn with a red bead to all those in attendance. This was a visual to unite our audience for the AIDs day and was very popular. Then, the kids did four skits and a few raps about how to prevent HIV. We had not been able to practice with microphones before this day because the electricity is so sporadic in this village so this added a bit of uncertainty to the event. Then, in the middle of the skits and raps, the kids--in charge of the soundboard, decided to throw on some dance music and improve a dance.
This left the Peace Corps Volunteers flabergasted and slightly amused, I think everyone else in attendance was just confused though. We wrapped up on stage with the kids receiving certificates from the Peace Corps staff who were in attendance. Finally, the volunteers in attendance passed out condoms to the villagers. People were happy to receive the condoms but a bit upset they could only get 9. They told us that 9 condoms would only last them 3 days--I'll be bringing back 1152 male condoms to the river next week.
In review, the World AIDs day event went about as smoothly as we could expect. Hopefully those in attendance will remember our event when they see a kid or a volunteer walking around the village sporting a red bead which were still being worn a week after the event. But most importantly, we got through to sixteen 6th graders whom I'm hoping won't ever have to sit in a room and be tested for HIV because they know how to prevent it.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Peace Corps goes to the zoo
"You guys are a bunch of jackasses" --10 year old bully
It's the holiday season in Suriname and the greater majority of volunteers are in the city, Paramaribo, for the holidays either getting ready to go back to America for Christmas or getting ready for the big New Year's Eve party that will grace the streets of Paramaribo and is rumored to rival the fireworks display along the 880 in Oakland--I'll believe it when I see it. But before we bid adeui to some of our fellow volunteers bound for the greater 50 States, particularly those headed for the granite state which is home of the purple finch--yes I'm talking about the fair state of New Hampshire, we are up to no good in the city.
Yesterday, four of us--Ian, Cameron, James the Suriname Ambassador for New Hampshire, and myself, went to the zoo. For those not picking up on the New Hampshire jokes, there are four volunteers from New Hampshire in Peace Corps Suriname which is a disproportionate 10% of our American volunteer population here. They swear it is the most wicked best place ever and James has convinced at least half the volunteers to move there after service.
After another morning of banana pancakes at Ian's house, Cameron convinced us to go to the zoo. He had been there the day before, by himself, and convinced Ian, James and I--it's not a tall feat to convince us by any means, that we needed to explore this magical place. After paying 5 SRD, about a 1.75 USD equivalent, we gained admission into the zoo and were eager to begin our adventure. We quickly spotted the monkeys.
We also spotted an oversized Goodyear tire and thought it would be appropriate to do hand stands on it. What else would you use a big tire like this for? 
After the tire swing we decided to head to the petting zoo portion where we petted a donkey and James gave a cow a kiss. 
Earlier, we had looked into the anaconda display and had not been able to see it. While at the petting zoo, we noticed it was hiding on the backside of its display. It was a big one (that's what she said). 
After the petting zoo, we decided to make our first of three appearances at the playground. The animals could wait for a sweet tire zip line. Unfortunately this is where we met the 10-year old heckler, he picked on us the rest of the day. Here is Cameron ready to go down the zip-line. 
And here's me upside-down on the monkey bars. 
Then, because there are no railroad tracks in Suriname, the only train in Suriname passed us on the road, blasting gangster rap music, carrying its passengers all under the age of six. 
Then we saw something really strange, a caged tree! Apparently it's dangerous. 
And a cool ant-eater. 
Then Cam tried to make friends with an ostrich...where did this ostrich come from!? 
After checking out some sweet tigers and heckling an out-of-shape jaguar the mid-day rainy season rains decided to come out. So we found a gazebo and took a quick cat nap. 
After the rains stopped and we woke up from our naps we felt rejuvenated. And since the heckler kid was busy harrassing an enormous crocile, we felt it would be the perfect time to go back to the playground and do this! 
After entertaining the kids for at least an hour we were able to convince one of the birthday parties to paint our faces. Hence, the first picture up above. Eventually, we would show up at a fancy dinner party later that night still donning our face paint. We don't expect to be invited to anything formal again for the next 2 years. And this was our big day at the zoo. This is how four Peace Corps Volunteers spent their day at the office on Saturday, December 19, 2009, promoting the second goal of Peace Corps: Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served. Minus the poor form we displayed on the teeter-totter, I think we did a good job. Finally, I leave you with a video that sums up the day well.
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