Ground Hog’s Day

“Peace Corps is a lot like that Ground Hog’s Day movie.” –PCV Suriname

The quote says it all about the Peace Corps here in Suriname. We live a simple, predictable life. On a typical day, I have slept in and wake up to hot weather again, make myself a bowl of Corn Flakes or instant oatmeal if I’m feeling adventurous, wash myself and dishes in the river where one of the men who carries a little bird cage around with him likes to bust my balls and tell me he’s off to do men’s work in his boat, implying my washing of dishes is woman’s work. At first I took it personal but now I just laugh it off and think it’s ironic that this guy is off to do men’s work with his bird cage—talk about differences in cultural opinions. And then I go back to my beloved hammock until I feel like “working”. And to think my folks said I’d never get paid to sleep in and be unproductive. (note sarcasm here plz)

Once I hit the village paths to greet the villagers they will ask me what I cooked and ate. When I tell them, they are usually perplexed that I have not eaten rice before noon. At this time, I am usually perplexed because some folks are on their second helping of rice for the day. So, if I didn’t eat rice, I must have gone fishing, right? Nope. At this point I am almost the worst villager ever. But then, things go from bad to worse. After I am asked about my meals and lack of fishing the villagers want to know why I don’t have a woman. “Do you want a Sarramaccan woman? No!? Why not? I know a perfectly fit one for you, Basiapai, take her back to America. Well if you won’t take her, at least bring me back another one from America!” (Insert awkward silence) “So.” And then I flee back to my hammock for sweet refuge.

Haha, OK, it’s not that bad, it is a bit exaggerated but sometimes that is how it feels. There is definitely monotony and repetition from day to day life here some days. At home stay I was waking up every morning at 6 am and working out but when I came to site I began having visitors in the night—rats, bats, etc. Due to the constant disruptions during the night, it caused me to begin waking up after 9 am, sometimes 10 am. Although, now I am regularly waking up before 8 in the morning. It is hot, every, single, day! Sometimes the heat is relentless, especially in the middle of the afternoon. Sometimes the smartest thing to do is go and lay down in the hammock in the middle of the afternoon. I have tried to keep meals interesting but when I am feeling unmotivated to cook I usually end up eating a lot of rice cakes or spooning peanut butter. I can not make those special Top Ramen noodle tuna casserole everyday, right? And, I do take crap for washing dishes on occasion. And at first, before I considered some of these guys my friends, it pissed me off. Now I can laugh about it.

As for the conversations, they are structured pretty much exactly like I said. Although, first you greet a person and ask if they’re doing good, then you ask what they cooked or ate. I thought asking some what they ate was a bit intrusive at first, what I put in my mouth is my own business (that’s what she said). I asked an older woman in the village why people in the village always asked what you had to eat, she said it was just good manners—understanding cultural differences, accomplished! And then, I am constantly asked if I have a woman and if I’d be willing to take a local woman. I don’t think this will ever stop over the next two years. And even if I had a woman they would want me to make like 5 babies in 2 years probably. Not going to happen.

Finally, the “work”. The whole concept of work for my Peace Corps assignment, and in the village, is different than the concept of work by American standards. By American standards, I’d probably be considered a bum. These first two months at site my work has mostly consisted of talking with people, trying to improve my language, understand the culture and other intricacies of living here. Just a short, 20 minute conversation can feel like a lot of work. It is very frustrating to stumble with a foreign language and not understand everything you are being told. Although I speak the language fairly well sometimes I feel like a complete idiot when I do not understand. I may go around the village for an hour or so at a time, talking with people, before I have to call it quits and go back to my house to clear my head and get myself refreshed for the next rounds of conversations. By village standards, I would assume I am considered smart but sometimes lazy. I read a lot and know how to work computers which makes me smart but that is not traditional work. Work here does not revolve around money so much as it does around traditionally working hard, or as they call it “wooko taanga” (working strong), which is hunting, fishing or building boats or houses if you are a man. Basically, I can’t build nothin’, I am not allowed to hunt and I’d rather sit in a boat and drink a Parbo than pay attention to the fish. Although, not all is bad, I have gotten some respect from the village for planting grounds and making an enormous fire to burn my trash, they were especially pleased that I managed not to burn down the village while I burnt my trash because it was a pretty big heap of trash and brush and shot up pretty high and fast. One lady told me she saw it from the other side of the village. A few people have also been very complementary about my language progression which is always a nice boost for the confidence. As far as Peace Corps standards for doing work, I’d say I am right on par. I have not delved too heavily into the project work which has allowed me to observe the community more clearly and look at the various options I will have available for work. Although, I am beginning to take charge over one project that the last volunteer here left me which involves a lot of computer work and networking with people in the city. I feel it’s a good thing to start now because it does not require mastery of the local language and gives me something to do every now and again. Other projects, though, I have had to put on hold until I speak the language better.

Otherwise, in these first two months on the job, I have tried to put a big premium on sharing my stories with you, my friends, my audience. Having this blog, writing letters to my World Wise School, St. John’s San Lorenzo, posting videos and posting pictures so that friends, family or just the casual internet vagabond can look and enjoy my story and then getting positive feedback has helped to keep me busy and been a huge boost for my morale. Thank you and I hope you will continue to enjoy the sights and stories of my journey.


--Chris Rodriguez, “Basiapai”